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Monday, 30 January 2023

FUNERARY MONUMENTS IN THE COURTYARD & INSIDE THE CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF HOPE, VYPIN

   
Photograph: January, 2023
 
This church is situated in Vypin Island directly opposite to Fort Cochin. Tradition has it that the first church of Vypin was built in 1503 by the Franciscan Friars; the second in 1596, which was located in the south-east corner of the present cemetery; and the current sanctuary was consecrated in 1605 as a Parish Church under the title 'Nossa Senhora de Esperanca' (Our Lady of Hope) by Dom Andrea de Santa Maria (1588-1610), the Bishop of Cochin Diocese. Perhaps the earliest reference to a church in Vypin is from a letter written by the Jesuit priest, Fr. Gaspar Soeiro from Cochin on September, 1560, where he mentions of a church in an Island called Vaipim (Vypin) or Ilha Santa (Holy Island) belonging to the Franciscan Friars. This would indicate that the first Church in Vypin was built before 1560. The Portuguese also had a fortified residence of the bishop indicated as 'Caza do Bispo' in Vypin. At the time of the siege of Cochin (1662-63), the Bishop House was demolished and the Dutch built 'New Orange Fort' nearby, but the church was left unharmed. The long-standing tradition is that, to this Catholic church, the Dutch allowed the transfer of the holy relics and altar of the Portuguese St Francis church, after the latter was converted to a Protestant church. It is said that the Dutch permitted three altars together with their adjoining screens of St Francis Church to be removed to the Church of Our Lady of Hope in Vypin. The sacred items remained in Vypin church until they were shifted to the Indo-Portuguese Museum in 2000. 
 
The 16th century altar piece of the former Portuguese St Francis church displayed in the Indo-Portuguese Museum of Fort Kochi
The Portuguese altar piece from the 16th Century is carved in teak wood (?), painted in green marbling with vestiges of gold, and has a size of 334 x 300 x 156 cm (Pinto, Mendes M. H. et. al., Indo-Portuguese Museum, Bishop's House, Cochin. published by Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, Lisbon, 2011). Photograph: January, 2023
 
 
Today, there are 4 tombstones inside the church and one in the courtyard near the open-air granite cross. 
 
Inside the church
1) A prominent VOC (Dutch East India Company) officer
2) A wealthy businessman of probable Portuguese descent
3) A master ship builder of Cochin
4) A woman well-known enough to get a burial inside the church
 
Location of the grave monuments (1 to 4) inside the church.
 Photographs: August, 2022
 
Outside the church
5) A young woman aged 21
The yellow arrow marks the position of the gravestone in the courtyard. Photograph: January, 2023
 
Interestingly, all five tombstones appear in the inventory of Roberts and Chekkutty (2017, pp. 163-166), under Christian Cemetery of Palliport. However, Palliport (Pallippuram) is at the northern end of Vypin Island, which is about 25 km from from the church we are discussing. It must be, therefore, the 'Church of Our Lady of Hope' at South Vypin has been mistakenly identified with the 'Church of Our Lady of Snow' at Pallippuram in North Vypin. The inventory has a total 32 names, and out of which, 23 are reported with a gravestone. Therefore, if this statistics stands valid, 18 tombstones are lost now. Also, 8 of the graves mentioned are for Reverends of the Dutch church. The 4 epitaphs inside the church are as follow:

1) Johan Hendrik Medeler (died 4 August, 1777)
This funerary marker belongs to a Dutch VOC staff named Johan Hendrik Medeler, who professed the Catholic faith, and attended the St Francis church of Cochin, says Bauke van der Pol (2014, p. 199). Van der Pol identifies him as the only VOC official to be buried in Malabar in a Catholic Church. A different view is that the grave belongs to the wife of Medeler and not Medeler himself as speculated by van der Pol.

 Photograph: August, 2022
 
The epitaph, as you can see is heavily abbreviated and not easy to decipher. Thanks to Rene ten Dam and Valentine Wikaart (sharedcemeteries.net), I now know how the inscription can be read. Their take on the 5-lined inscription is given below. The original script, expanded Dutch version and the literal English translation are as follow:

1) H. R. De. W. Ed. Gst. Mh. Hr. Ih. Hr.
Hier Rust De 'Wel Edele Gestrenghe' Manhafte Heer Johan Hendrik
Here Rests the Honourable Brave Lord Johan Hendrik

(This line was the most difficult to decipher and I owe a special thanks to Valentine for cracking the code. Take note that 'Weledelgestrenghe' is one word in Dutch, and it can be translated as 'honourable'. How does one read the tombstone for the wife of Medeler? Rene points out that if you miss the punctuation between 'W' and 'Ed', the word becomes ' WEd, which could be an abbreviation for either Weduwe (Widow) or Weduwnaar (Widower).

2) Medeler. I. Z. Lv. Maioor. E. Hoofd.
Medeler In zijn leven Majoor en Hoofd
Medeler in His Life Major and Head

3) D. Militie. V. D. Kuste. Mal.
De Militie van de Kust Mal
The Militia of the Coast Mal

4) Labaar.  Geb. d. 17. Dec. Ao. ?
Labaar. Geboren op 17 december Anno ?
Labaar. Born on 17 December Year ?

5) Overld. d. 4. Aug. Ao. 1777
Overleden op 4 Augustus Anno 1777
Died on 4 August Year 1777

The epitaph should therefore translate: "Here rests the Honourable Brave Lord Johan Hendrik Medeler. In his life a Major and Head of the Militia of the Coast Malabar. Born on 17th December (year?). Died on 4th August, year 1777". In the Dutch volume, 'De Wapenheraut' (Vol. 3, 1899, p. 198), we find Major Jan Hendrik Medeler was the chief of militia at Malabar, and died there in 1777. The British Indian Army Officer and Orientalist, T. W. Venn reports Medeler's grave site specifically at Vypin in tolerably good order at the time of his writing (1950, pp. 16-17). Venn notes that Medeler was buried within the altar rails of Vypin church according to his wish. In a lengthy article published by Major R Raven-Hart in 1958 entitled 'Major Medeler's Relief Expedition 1765', a brief biography is included as a separate note in the appendix. To my knowledge, this is the most detailed study on Major Medeler available, and it identifies all the key dates in his official and to some extend his personal life. The following details are compiled from this study.
 
Jan Hendrik Medeler-A Biography
Medeler, Jan Hendrik was born in Brakel, a village in the Dutch province of Gelderland.
 
How Jan Medeler rose in the VOC service from Trumpeter to Major shows well of his military capabilities. There is no dispute now that the person buried inside the Vypin church is Major Jan Hendrik Medeler and and not his wife. Is there any information on Medeler's wife? We learn from Raven-Hart (1958) that their marriage occurred on 4th November, 1741 at Colombo and that she was a widow while marrying Medeler, but her name is not revealed. We get this crucial information from John Perry Lewis (1913, p. 79), who reports the death of Susanna Petronella Charlotte Sluysken, the wife of Colombo's Chief Administrator, Pieter Sluysken on the 3rd October, 1786 and burial in the Pettah Cemetery Colombo, Sri Lanka. Susanna is identified as the "daughter of Major Jan Hendrik Medeler of Braeckel, who married on November 4, 1741, at Colombo, Gertuida Augustin of Batavia, widow" by Lewis (1913). However, we don't have information regarding the burial sites of Gertuida and her other children. The year of Medeler's birth is mentioned in the tombstone, but unfortunately it is illegible now (see the end of the 4th line). If Roberts and Chekkutty's version (2017) is accepted, the tombstone is reread as "Medeler-maj. of the Dutch Militia, died 4 August 1777, age 59/8", and which means Medeler was born on 17 December, 1718 or 1719. Although, Medeler lived most of his four-decades-long official life in Ceylon, fate took him to Cochin where he spent 7 years, and became his final resting place.
 
With the year of his birth included we can complete the inscription as follows: "Here rests the Honourable Brave Lord Johan Hendrik Medeler. In his life a Major and Head of the Militia of the Coast of Malabar. Born on 17th December 1718/19. Died on 4th August, year 1777".
 
A detailed article on Major Medeler and the 'Medeler Family' in general has appeared recently in sharedcemeteries.net (see here).
 
2) C M D'Queiros (died 1849)
Queiros or Quieros Street
Photograph: January, 2023
 
In Fort Cochin, there is a street named 'Queiros Street', so the first thought that came to my mind is whether he has some connection to it. Why was he buried in Vypin? He must be some one important to get interred inside the church. The famous Queiros in Cochin was Joachim Marques D'Queiros, who was a secretary of the Civil & Criminal Courts, Public Notary and Auctioneer. "As an auctioneer he seems to have been kept pretty busy, and the fact that he acquired sufficient property for Breede Street to be renamed De Quieros Street is not without significance" wrote Venn (1950, p. 15). As per VOC archives, J M D'Queiros lived in Breestrat (Wide Street) in 1792 (Singh, 2010, p. 272), and van der Pol also assumes (2014, p. 181), that after the VOC era this particular street was named after him. J M Queiros was also once the owner of the inn at the Cochin Port (presently the Old Harbour Hotel on Tower Road of Fort Cochin) as evident from the deed of sale dated 30th December, 1788 (van der Pol, 2014, p. 181). He seems to be our candidate, but the one major discrepancy is that the epitaph records his name as C M D'Queiros and not J M D'Queiros. 
 
The solution to this paradox appears in the same work by Venn (1950, p. 66). Apparently, there is another Queiros named 'Charles Marques de Quieros' (C M D'Queiros), who was 'a conductor in charge of the ordinance stores collected at Cochin for the British armies campaigning against Tipu Sultan, facilities for which both the Dutch and the Rajah of Cochin, in their own interests, had granted', notes Venn. He was a wealthy man with property of considerable extent, and under the provisions of his will a bequest of Rs. 1,000/- was made to Vypeen church, and the residue of the estate, after other legacies had been met, was applied to the benefit of his soul and that of his dearly beloved wife, Ann. Ann Krantz was his second wife, Lanslot Dina Henrietta Parsons, his first wife accepted a settlement of Rs. 2,500/- and dissolved the marriage contract. 
 
The name Charles Marques de Queiros appears Portuguese, but in Venn's opinion, he is always recorded as a pure blooded Dutchman (1950, p. 66). However, when you analyze the marble tombstone, the script is in Portuguese with some Latin abbreviations. May be he was a Toepas, that is to say a dark-skinned or half-caste claimant of Portuguese descent who followed Roman Catholicism. Regarding the street name, Venn is not sure whether it was so named in C M D'Queiros' lifetime or because he predominantly owned it (1950, p. 66). The exact year of his death is not easy to decipher from the tombstone as the numerals have faded significantly, but Roberts and Chekkuty (2017) has given the year as1849. I believe the inscription reads as follows:

(Chi Rho-Symbol for Jesus Christ)

A E REQUEZIA DE VAIPIM
AO SEU BEMFEITOR
C M D'QUEIROS
E M ACGRADECIMENTOS PERPETUO
POZ
ESTA LAPIDA NO ANNO 1849
R.I.P.

The epitaph acknowledges Vaipim's (Vypin) benefactor, C M D'Queiros; offers him perpetual gratitude; and the final line records the year of his death 1849. 

Photograph: January, 2023
 
3) C C Poney Gueizelar (died 21 October, 1852)
Charles Christopher Poney Gueizelar is another influential personality from Cochin, a Master Ship builder whose fame reached beyond the borders. The epitaph in red marble stone is detailed and engraved in English. The 17-lined inscription reads:

SACRED
TO THE MEMORY
OF
C.C. PONEY GUEIZELAR
MASTER SHIP BUILDER
FOR 42 YEARS OF THE PORT OF COCHIN
DIED 21ST OCTOBER 1852
AGED 63 YEARS, 7 MONTHS, 2 DAYS
NOT ONLY MUCH LOVED AND ESTEMED
BY ALL HIS KINDRED AND FRIENDS BUT
HIGHLY RESPECTED BY ALL CLASSES
FOR HIS GENERAL AFFABILITY AND
CHARITABLE DISPOSITION
........................................................................ 
He that moketh the poor Reproacheth his Maker
He that giveth to the poor lendeth to the Lord
.......................................................................
THIS TRIBUTE TO HIS REMAINS IS
DEDICATED BY HIS CHILDREN
 

Photograph: January, 2023
 
Bernard, K L dedicates a chapter for 'Ship Building in Cochin in the 19th Century' in his work 'Flashes of Kerala History' (1995), here he discusses in detail about Poney Gueizelar's shipping industry and the quality of his products, which were in high demand even outside India. Venn (1950, p. 106) calls him Mr. Powney Guizelaar, the chief ship builder, and writes that he lived in a single storey house at the corner of Napier Street and Cemetery (Dutch) Road in Fort Cochin, usually referred to as 'Poney'. Venn also notes Guizelaar's gravestone in Vypeen church dated 1852 declaring his career as a shipbuilder of Cochin for 42 years (1950, p. 104). In a Facebook post that I came across recently, Walton Raberts who identifies himself as the descendant of Poney Guiezelar claims: Guiezelar was a Swiss-German captain who landed in Vypin, where he built a shipyard and employed local people; who was a benefactor of Our Lady of Hope Church, Vypin; he donated land for the cemetery, and as a result was bestowed the privilege of being buried near the altar of the Church. More about the Guiezelars and their Vypin connection can be read in his book Dancing the Oceans (2019).
 

4) Ann Pauline Joineau (died 8 February, 1841)
This plain and simple tombstone belongs to a woman, about whom nothing is known, but she must be certainly someone very important to get buried before the main altar of the church. We saw earlier that C M D'Queiros made arrangements for the burial of his beloved wife Ann in the same church where he was also to be interred. Is she therefore the wife of Queiros? Venn however names her Ann Krantz (1950, p. 66), so it is difficult to conclude if both are the same individuals. Roberts and Chekkutty's (2017) inventory reads: "Joincan, Anne Pauline, died 8 February 1841, Gravestone".
 
The epitaph on the site says:
 
ANN
PAULINE
JOINEAU
8 FEV
1841 
 
 
 
 The yellow arrow in the first photograph marks the position of the gravestone. Photographs: August, 2022
 
5) Welhelmina Thomasia (died 14 April 1853)
 Photograph: January, 2023
 
In the courtyard of the church near the open-air granite cross is an isolated tombstone which not many will pay attention to. The tombstone is broken in the middle and inscriptions have faded with age. A part of the inscription at the upper left corner and the middle sections of the epitaph are lost irrecoverably. Luckily, the names and dates have survived the damage and can still be read without much difficulty. The upper 4 lines of the tombstone are difficult to read, they are probably verses from a prayer. The 5th line "Hodie Mihi Cras Est Tibi" is Latin for "Today me, tomorrow you". The remaining portion of the epitaph reads, "Sacred to the Memory of Welhelmina Thomasia the...Daughter of...D'Cruz...D(ied) (14) April 1853. Ag(e)d 21 Years". The inventory of Roberts and Chekkutty (2017) has preserved the burial date, 14 April 1853, and her age, 21 years at the time of death. She is probably unmarried, or else her husband's name would have appeared in the epitaph. Unfortunately, due to the damaged state of the tombstone, only the last name of her father can be retrieved.
 
The incomplete inscription on the tombstone roughly reads:
1) …THAT OF A M...
2) …
3)…MORTAL…
4) ...PRAISE THE…
5) HODIE MIHI CRAS EST TIBI
6) SACRED
7) TO THE MEMORY
8) OF
9) WELHE(LM)INA THOMASIA
10) THE (BELOVED?) DAUGHTER OF
11) ...D'CRUZ
12) ???
13) D(IED) (14) APRIL 1853
14) AG(E)D 21 YEARS
 
Enlarged views of the tombstone
 
 
 
 Photographs: January, 2023
 
A few queries come to mind. Were there other funerary monuments in the courtyard at some point of time, or to be more specific, was there an old cemetery in this area during the Portuguese or Dutch periods? Luckily, we have an old photograph of this church where the entire front courtyard is visible. The image captured in 1868 is perhaps the oldest photograph of a church from Kerala (see my blog entry here for more details). 
 
 Church of Our Lady of Hope-Vypin in 1868

You can notice that the church, the open air granite cross, the bell tower-all remain essentially the same even after 155 years! On the other hand, the four white-washed pillars in the courtyard, the clay-tiled shed in front of the cross, the short wall built across the courtyard, and the thatched building at the extreme left have all disappeared. Similarly, the letters JNRI inscribed on the top of the cross in the photograph is absent in the present structure. What needs to be understood is that the entire courtyard remained empty even in 1868, and there were no other funerary monuments. Since, Welhelmina was buried in 1853, her gravestone should have been visible in this photograph. May be due to the angle from which the photograph is taken, the tomb is concealed behind the pedestal of the cross or perhaps the gravestone was installed in the current location from a different site after 1868.  
 
Another rare and older image of the church has appeared as a drawing in 'British and Native Cochin' by Charles Lawson in 1860. 
Church of Our Lady of Hope-Vypin in 1860

Here also the front courtyard is nicely depicted with the church and open air granite cross. Even the four pillars in the previous image are also carefully drawn, but as you can see the courtyard is empty without any grave markers
 
Interestingly, Venn (1950, p. 104) records a gravestone, outside the church of a man who died in 1841. Although the exact location of the tombstone is not mentioned, he provides the inscription that reads.-"A. Guerre, for many years a shipbuilder of this place". The current whereabouts of this grave marker is unknown.   

 Church of Our Lady of Hope-Vypin in 2022
 
REFERENCES
 
Bernard, K L (1995)-Flashes of Kerala History

Epen, D G van (1899)-De Wapenheraut 
 
Lewis, John Perry (1913)-List of Inscriptions on Tombstones and Monuments in Ceylon

Roberts, John Cantwell and Chekkutty, C P (2017)-Malabar Christian Memorials, Wynad to Travancore, 1498-2014

Singh, Anjana (2010)-Fort Cochin in Kerala, 1750-1830-The Social Condition of a Dutch Community in an Indian Milieu, Ph. D. Thesis

Van der Pol, Bauke (2014)-The Dutch East India Company in India

Venn, T W (1950)-Cochin-Malabar Palms and Pageants 

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INTRODUCTION

The monotheistic religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam arrived India much before they reached the West. For instance, it is widely believed that Christianity reached the subcontinent only after Portuguese, the first European colonists arrived India in the 15th century. However, long before Christianity reached many parts of Europe, it came to India. According to strong, continuous and unanimous traditions among the ancient Syrian Christians of Kerala, Christianity was introduced to India by St: Thomas, the Apostle of Jesus Christ in 52 AD, who established seven churches in Kerala. Contrary to popular belief that Islam came to India through the 11th century Muslim invasions in the northern parts of the country, it first arrived Kerala via the Arab merchants from 7th century onwards at the earliest. Similarly, Judaism the oldest continuously practiced monotheistic religion has an Indian presence from very early times. If traditional accounts are to be accepted,India had a Jewish colony from the time of King Solomon (10th century BC)! Most importantly, all the three religions trace their arrival in India to the Malabar region of Southern India which is currently the modern State of Kerala. Since ancient times Kerala has been the center of the Indian spice trade where Greeks, Romans, Jews, Arabs and Chinese came for grabbing their part of share. To be specific, the first Jewish, Christian and Islamic settlements of India claim their origin to a place called Cranganore (modern Kodungallur) in Kerala.

Much has been written on Indian Jews, their unique culture and traditions. Among the three major Jewish communities in India, the “Kerala Jews” popularly known as“Cochin Jews” are the most ancient followed by the “Bene Israel” of Maharashtra and the “Baghdadi Jews” of West Bengal. Recently two more communities have claimed Jewish ancestry viz. “Bene Menasheh” (1970s) from North East India and “Bene Ephraim or Telugu Jews” (1980s) from Andhra Pradesh. A small population of Jews had migrated to India during the Mughal, Portuguese, Dutch, French and British rule as well. Perhaps the Jewish refugees from Hitler’s Anti-Semitic Europe were the last Jews to arrive India. In other words, Jews weren’t a single emigration to India. At different times they arrived and settled peacefully in India where they never experienced any anti-Semitism from the native Indian community. Although Jews supposedly reached Kerala as early as 1st century AD, there were many different waves of emigrations later as well. Gradually, Jews of Kerala became organized into three distinct groups, but the different communities interacted very less among themselves. 1) Malabari Jews: the largest and most ancient group considered to have arrived in India as merchants during the period of King Solomon (1000 BC). 2). ‘Paradesi’ (foreigner) Jews: the second largest and recent group (from 16th century onwards) who migrated mainly from Egypt, Iraq, Syria, Iran, Spain and Germany. 3). ‘Meshuhararim’ (released): the smallest group believed to be the slaves held by both Malabari and Paradesi communities who were converted to Judaism and later on released from their status as slaves. The Malabari Jews were called the ‘Black Jews’, the Meshuhararim-the ‘Brown Jews’ and the ‘Paradesi’-the ‘White Jews’-terms considered derogatory and racist today. The arguments on who came first and who are more pure were often fought vehemently and each sect defended their claims. The Jewish population of Kerala numbered 2,400 at the height of their “mass” emigration to Israel in 1954. Today (2011), less than 40 Jews remain in Kerala-9 Paradesi Jews comprising of 6 women and 3 men; and less than 30 Malabari Jews.

In a strong caste-based Indian society, fair skinned Paradesi Jews managed to win a privileged position although they were a minority and newly arrived. Their European background, influence and wealth managed to push the majority of relatively poor Malabar Jews into an inferior position in colonial India. Unfortunately, even today for many in the west and to a great extent in India too, the existence of Kerala’s ancient Malabari Jewish community and their heritage is far unknown. The famous Paradesi Synagogue in Cochin is perhaps the only monument that comes into the mind of many as far as Judaism in Kerala is concerned. Often mistakenly acclaimed to be the oldest (built 1568) synagogue in British Commonwealth, the Paradesi Synagogue however, is the only functional one in Kerala today (2011). Did the Jewish community of Kerala leave anything more than this famed synagogue? The answer is a big yes. Judaism in Kerala is not only about the Paradesi Jews of Cochin and their synagogue in Mattanchery. In fact, the Malabari Jews have seven synagogues and six cemeteries, and several aretfacts and monuments that are also part of Kerala’s rich Jewish heritage! This does not include the few existing Jewish homes and the many earlier Jewish residences converted into non-Jewish owned business buildings and private villas.

This blog will be an attempt to help people both inside and outside India to locate and learn about the known Jewish monuments of Kerala, that include synagogues, cemeteries and former Jewish residences. It will be equally pictorial and textual in format. One of the objectives of this blog is to help people in identifying all known Jewish monuments of Kerala through maps and photographs. Their left out synagogues and cemeteries are the physical landmarks that still stand in testimony to the vibrant and glorious heritage of Jews who claim at least 2000 years of strong and continuous bond with India. The big question is about the accessibility and identification of these monuments. Some of the cemeteries for example are so overgrown with weeds and turned into garbage dumping yards that even the locals have no clue about their existence. Most of the sites have no sign boards or maps available to pin point their exact location. The information from internet and other sources are also limited or at times misinformed when locating the monuments are concerned. I will try to get as many photographs as needed to help people understand these monuments and the blog will not be confined to the heritage of Paradesi Jews alone. For those synagogues that are disputed properties or lie in ruined state and are not accessible for the public I will only add photographs of the exterior. Some of the original Jewish artifacts from Kerala are preserved in Israel and what left here are the duplicates. In such cases, I will trace and append online links having the original photographs. Regarding the dates associated with the history of ‘Kerala Jews’, I have tried to incorporate the most popular views and need not always be the scholarly accepted ones. I shall be much glad if any one can contribute or provide details of additional monuments, sites or artifacts you think can be classified as part of Jewish heritage of Kerala.

Being also a photoblog, I will be concentrating more on the photographs taken from various Jewish monuments in Kerala. Not many sites are available online that go deep into the structural and historic details of these heritage units with photographs. However, we are lucky to have a few very enlightening resources. The“Friends of Kerala Synagogues 2011”(Prof. Jay A. Waronker, USA; Prof. Shalva Weil, Israel; Marian Scheuer Sofaer, USA; Isaac Sam, India and Tirza Muttath Lavi, Israel) maintain an excellent site on the synagogues of Kerala. I strongly recommend anyone interested in ‘Jewish synagogues of Kerala’ to go through their highly informative links. Whenever, I refer to their site, it will be acknowledged as ‘www.cochinsyn.com’. The other very important site I recommend is the beautiful photo collection by Jono David in his Ha Chayim Ha Yehudim Jewish Photo Library’. He has photographs from many Jewish monuments of India. Although he has got wrong one of the synagogues (Mattancherry Kadavumbagam Synagogue) the site has largely helped me to identify the Jewish cemeteries in Kerala.

JEWISH MONUMENTS & ARTIFACTS OF KERALA

The most important Jewish heritage structures in Kerala are the synagogues (Juda Palli in Malayalam), cemeteries and residences.

A. Synagogues

Today, there are 35 synagogues in India and 7 of them are in Kerala. The architectural style of Kerala synagogues differs from those in the west. These synagogues are strongly influenced from earlier Hindu religious buildings on its design and construction. They are characterized by high slope roofs, thick laterite-stoned walls, large windows and doors, balcony and wood-carved ceilings. A Kerala synagogue consists of a ‘Gate House’ at the entrance that leads through a Breezeway to the Synagogue Complex. The synagogue complex is made of a fully enclosed Azara or Anteroom and a double-storeyed sanctuary-the main prayer hall. Inside a typical double-storeyed sanctuary of a ‘Kerala Synagogue’ are:

1) A Tebah/Bimah: Located at the center of the sanctuary, Tebah is usually an elevated wooden platform or pulpit from which Torah, the holy book of Jews is read. 2) A Heichal (Ark): Represents the altar. It is a chest or cupboard in the synagogue where the Torah scrolls are kept. It is usually carved intricately and painted/gilded with teak wood. Unlike in the European Synagogues, where the ark is placed on the eastern wall, the synagogues in Kerala have the arks on the western wall facing Jerusalem. 3) A Balcony/Second Tebah: It is unique to the synagogues of Kerala. The balcony has two portions one for men and the other for ladies. Women’s seating area is placed directly above the azara. 4) A Staircase: Leads to the balcony and is generally spiral in shape and made of wood. At times there are two staircases, one for men from the main hall inside the synagogue and the other for the ladies from a staircase room outside the synagogue; 5) A Jewish School: Is actually a classroom for Jewish children usually located behind the women’s section on the first floor.

B. Cemeteries

Resting place of ancestors means a lot to the Jewish community. Sometimes they even carried tombstones from their old settlements while migrating to a newer place. The oldest Jewish tomb in India (dated 1269 AD) preserved in front of Chendamangalam synagogue is one such transferred from Kodungallur. Unlike Christian tombs in Kerala with Malayalam and English engravings, the Jewish graves have mostly Hebrew inscriptions. The Jewish year can be converted into modern Gregorian date if one can read the Hebrew letters. ‘Reading Hebrew Tombstones’ is an interesting site to read the Jewish tombs.

C. Jewish Residences

Today, most of the early Jewish homes sold to non-Jews are substantially modified or refurbished. However, there are a few features that still make them identifiable. Sometimes you can trace Jewish symbols like Menorah (candlestick) and Magen David (Star of David) on the walls, windows and roof tops. For example, a few residences in Mattancherry still maintain the Star of David (Magen David) despite being converted into shops or warehouses. The best way to locate the home of a residing Jew is to look for the Mezuzah on the door post. Nailed to the doorpost of a Jewish home, Mezuzah is a small container made of wood, plastic or metal having a piece of parchment with the most important words from the Jewish Holy Book, Torah. It is customary among religious Jews to touch the mezuzah on entering or leaving the home. A few homes in the Synagogue Lane of Mattancherry with mezuzah are the residences of the remaining 9 Paradesi Jews.

The Jewish monuments and artifacts I will be discussing in this blog are:

I Synagogues

1. Pardesi Synagogue, Mattancherry (1568)

2. Kadavumbagam Synagogue, Mattancherry (1130 or 1539)

3. Thekkumbagam Synagogue, Mattancherry (1647, only the building site known)

4. Kadavumbagam Synagogue, Ernakulam (1200)

5. Thekkumbagam Synagogue, Ernakulam (1200 or 1580))

6. Paravur Synagogue (750 or 1164 or 1616)

7. Mala Synagogue (1400 or 1597)

8. Chendamangalam Synagogue (1420 or 1614)

(The various speculated dates of establishment in parenthesis are taken from www.cochinsyn.com, coutesy Prof. Jay A. Waronker)

II Cemeteries

1. Pardesi Jewish Cemetery, Mattancherry

2. Malabari Jewish Cemetery, Mattancherry

3. Old Jewish Cemetery, Ernakulam

4. New Jewish Cemetery, Ernakulam

5. Paravur Jewish Cemetery

6. Mala Jewish Cemetery

7. Chendamangalam Jewish Cemetery

III Jew Streets

1. Jew Street Mattancherry (Jewish residences with Mezuzah and Magen David)

2. Jew Steet, Ernakulam (today all shops in non-Jewish hands)

3. Jew Street, Paravur (Twin Pillars)

4. Jew Street, Mala (Gate House and Breezeway of synagogue turned into shops)

5. Jew Street, Chendamangalam (used to be a Jewish Market or Judakambolam)

6. Jew Street, Calicut (identified in July 2011 as Jootha (Jew) Bazar)

IV Other Monuments & Artifacts

1. Tomb of Sarah (1269 AD), Chendamangalam

2. Kochangadi Synagogue Corner-stone, Mattancherry

3. Jewish Children’s Play Ground, Mattancherry

4. Clock-Tower, Mattancherry

5. Sarah Cohen’s Embroidery Shop, Mattancherry

6. Jew Hill/Judakunnu/Jewish Bazar, Palayur

7. Jew Tank/Judakkulam, Madayi

8. Koder House, Fort Kochi

9. Grand Residencia, Fort Kochi

10. Jewish Summer Resorts, Aluva

11. Jewish Copper Plates, Mattancherry

12. Syrian Copper Plates, Kollam

13. Torah Finial, Palayur

V Lost Jewish Colonies

1. Kodungallur (Thrissur)

2. Palayur (Thrissur)

3. Pullut (Thrissur)

4. Kunnamkulam (Thrissur)

5. Saudhi (Ernakulam)

6. Tir-tur (Ernakulam)

7. Fort Kochi (Ernakulam)

8. Chaliyam (Kozhikode)

5. Pantalayani Kollam (Kozhikode)

9. Thekkepuram (Kozhikkode)

10. Muttam (Alappuzha)

11. Kayamkulam (Alappuzha)

12. Dharmadom (Kannur)

13. Madayi (Kannur)

14. Quilon (Kollam)

15. Pathirikunnu, Krishnagiri (Waynad)

16. Anchuthengu (Thiruvananthapuram)