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Tuesday 27 June 2023

BRITISH GRAVES IDENTIFIED IN THE DUTCH CEMETERY OF FORT COCHIN (FORT KOCHI)

When one hears about a 'Dutch Cemetery', what comes to mind is a graveyard meant specifically for the Dutch people. Ironically, today, in the 'Dutch Cemetery' of Fort Cochin there are more identifiable British funerary monuments than the Dutch graves. Although, the cemetery began as a Dutch graveyard in 1724, soon after the British conquest of Cochin in 1795, it became the final resting place of the English elite and their family members too. Only after the mid-19th century, the British had a separate cemetery in Cochin. The new British cemetery is in a place just outside Fort Cochin called Veli today. In a previous post, I described about three English graves in the Dutch cemetery. After I had the opportunity to access the graveyard, the whole area was scanned more elaborately. To the best of my knowledge, no studies have been conducted so far to document the current status of British funerary monuments in the Dutch cemetery of Fort Cochin. I have identified a total 12 British funerary monuments inside the cemetery (including the three previously mentioned). In addition, there are two graves that have not been determined as of now, but we know they are British from the rudimentary English inscriptions left over them.  Thus, a total 14 tombs in the Dutch cemetery can be taken as British with certainty. 

British Indian Army Officer and orientalist, Thomas Walters Venn gives a first hand information on the funerary monuments in the Dutch cemetery. Through-out this study, I will be depending heavily on two of his important works on Cochin, published in 1947 and 1950, respectively. The one major drawback of course is that, most of the tombs discussed by Venn lack epitaphs today or the inscriptions on them  are obliterated. Nevertheless, using the vital clues provided by Venn, I am proposing a few more graves in the Dutch cemetery that can be classified as British.

A few interesting notes on the extant, identifiable British graves in the Dutch Cemetery: 
  • There are 14 graves in the Dutch cemetery with English inscriptions.
  • The oldest grave with an English epitaph is for a Dutch woman who married a British Captain, and it is dated 1796.
  • The oldest recognizable tomb for an British native is that of a 28 year old Captain, and it is dated 1815.
  • The youngest buried is a 3 year old girl, who is the daughter of a British Captain.
  • The oldest British interred is a Major, aged 82 years. 
  • The tallest funerary monument in the Dutch cemetery is also British (see here). 
  • The latest identifiable British grave in the cemetery is from 1906. 
 
The 14 identified British graves in the cemetery are as follows:
1.    Maria Elizabeth de Graff (d. 06/1796, Aged 23)
2.    Charles Biddulph (d. 04/1815, Aged 28)
3.    Sarah Wilhelmina Ives (d. 04/1820, Aged 3)
4.    Maria Evans (d. 07/1822, Aged 23)
5.    Arthur Frith (d. 04/1824, Aged 57)
6.    James Tate (d. 03/1827, Aged 75)
7.    Peter Winckler (d. 1842, Aged 78)
8.    Catherine E. Daly (d. 05/1844, Aged 12)
9.    Sarah Lascelles (d. 03/1845, Aged 33)
10.    Montague Ross Taynton (d. 10/1845, Aged 42)
11.    William Hamilton (d. 01/1882, Aged 72 or 82)
12.    Alice Elizabeth (d. 04/1906, Aged 32)
13.    Anonymous 1
14.    Anonymous 2

Thursday 15 June 2023

IDENTIFIABLE DUTCH GRAVES IN THE DUTCH CEMETERY, FORT COCHIN (FORT KOCHI)

In this post, I will upload photographs from the Dutch cemetery of Fort Cochin. The focus will be on the known Dutch graves alone. It has to be remembered, although the cemetery has 104 grave monuments, only 13 Dutch inscriptions have survived (sharedcemeteries.net)! Excluding a few other tombstones with English epitaphs, the majority of the graves remain anonymous as their inscriptions  are lost irrecoverably. In an earlier post, I had discussed in detail about these tombs and their locations inside the cemetery. However, I took all those images outside the boundary walls of the cemetery, as it is generally not open to visitors. For the first time I had the opportunity to access the Dutch cemetery of Fort Cochin. I extend my sincere gratitude to Rev. Kurian Peter, Vicar and Chairman of the St Francis CSI Church, Fort Cochin, for not only giving me the permission to access the cemetery, but also providing complete freedom and time to explore the grave monuments. I was inside the cemetery for about an hour on my own, the only concern was whether the thick vegetation and the dense green carpet of creepers were hiding any poisonous reptiles.

The site sharedcemeteries.net has an excellent series of articles on Dutch monuments inside this cemetery and a map to locate them. Incorporating here are the photographs which I took inside the cemetery. All the known Dutch graves (13 nos) and the close-up views of their corresponding gravestones are included here. I hope readers would now get a better understanding of the Dutch monuments.

The 13 Dutch funerary monuments uploaded in the ascending chronological order (oldest to youngest) are:  

D1) Johan Daimichen (died, 30 August, 1784)
D2) Aletta Augustina Thiel (died, 20 November, 1784)
D3) Jacob Bernard Weinsheimer (died, 1 March, 1790)
D4) Johannes van Blankenberg (died, 2 April, 1794)
D5) Johan Adam Cellarius  (died, 15 June, 1796)
D6) Adriaan Poolvliet (died 10 September, 1799)
D7) C & C (died, 14 October, 1799)
D8) Dorothea Lambertina Zeijsig (died, 10 November, 1800)
D9) Cornelia Elisabeth Vogt (died, 11 February, 1804)
D10) Samuel Homans (died, 1808)
D11) Helena Elizabeth Muller (died, 12 December, 1814)
D12) Johannes Wolff and Catharina Sara Smit (died, 18 September 1815 and 15 November 1820)
D13) Unknown 82-year old

Monday 5 June 2023

THE JOOTHAKULAM (JEW POND) OF MADAI (MADAYI) AT MADAYIPARA, KANNUR

Joothakulam or Jew Pond of Madai
 
Madayipara Plateau

Introduction

A few years ago I wrote about the legendary ‘Jew Pond’ of Kodungallur in central Kerala (see here, here, here and here). In this post, I will take you through another so-called ‘Jew Pool’, which is located in Kannur, a northern district of Kerala. Unlike the Joothakulam (Jew Pond) of Kodungallur, whose Jewish connection is long forgotten and even the name has been replaced by a modern title ‘Kunnamkulam’, the Jew Pond of north is still known as Joothakulam. The ‘Jew Tank’ of Kannur is located in the ‘Madai’ Panchayat (Village Council) near the township of Pazhayangadi (Payangadi). This pond is located on a beautiful laterite hillock named ‘Madayipara’ (i.e. Madai Rock or Madai Hill), a rich biodiversity center on the northern bank of Kuppam River, north of the city of Kannur. Spread across an area of above 700 acres, Madayipara is an ecological paradise for the nature lovers. I visited Madai way back in early March of 2016 with the main purpose of seeing the Jew Pond, and that was almost a year before I traced the Joothakulam of Kodungallur in February, 2017, so I must admit that it took me a long time to blog about this trip.

Madai-A Jewish Colony in the North Kerala?

Usually, when one refers both historically and currently to the Jewish settlements in Kerala, the area of study is essentially confined to the central districts of Kerala, i.e., Ernakulam and Thrissur. However, in this case, we are dealing with a region far away, about 300 km north of Cochin, the present-day Jewish epicentre. In comparison to the remnants of Jewish heritage in central Kerala, what is left in the northern Kerala is only sparse traces, but Joothakulam of Madai is a rare exception, and perhaps a ‘Jew Street’ in Kozhikode (Calicut) can be counted as well. What do we know about the Jewish settlement in Madai? How big was the Jewish colony in Madai? How long did the settlement flourish? What happened to the descendants of Madai Jews in Kerala? Are there any other historical relics or socio-cultural elements from Madai Jews that have survived today? These are just a few questions one might ask out of curiosity.

Jewish Madai in Early Accounts

Interestingly, Madai appears among the earliest Jewish settlements in both the Paradesi and the Malabari oral traditions (Jussay, 2005). Although, it comes in early records as a historical place, the first mention of a Jewish presence specifically at Madai is by the Portuguese writer, Duarte Barbosa. In his ‘Livro de Duarte Barbosa’ (or ‘Book of Duarte Barbosa’), originally written in Portuguese about 1510s, there is a direct reference to the Jews living in Madai. I believe it’s worth quoting two independent English translations of the passage here:

INTRODUCTION

The monotheistic religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam arrived India much before they reached the West. For instance, it is widely believed that Christianity reached the subcontinent only after Portuguese, the first European colonists arrived India in the 15th century. However, long before Christianity reached many parts of Europe, it came to India. According to strong, continuous and unanimous traditions among the ancient Syrian Christians of Kerala, Christianity was introduced to India by St: Thomas, the Apostle of Jesus Christ in 52 AD, who established seven churches in Kerala. Contrary to popular belief that Islam came to India through the 11th century Muslim invasions in the northern parts of the country, it first arrived Kerala via the Arab merchants from 7th century onwards at the earliest. Similarly, Judaism the oldest continuously practiced monotheistic religion has an Indian presence from very early times. If traditional accounts are to be accepted,India had a Jewish colony from the time of King Solomon (10th century BC)! Most importantly, all the three religions trace their arrival in India to the Malabar region of Southern India which is currently the modern State of Kerala. Since ancient times Kerala has been the center of the Indian spice trade where Greeks, Romans, Jews, Arabs and Chinese came for grabbing their part of share. To be specific, the first Jewish, Christian and Islamic settlements of India claim their origin to a place called Cranganore (modern Kodungallur) in Kerala.

Much has been written on Indian Jews, their unique culture and traditions. Among the three major Jewish communities in India, the “Kerala Jews” popularly known as“Cochin Jews” are the most ancient followed by the “Bene Israel” of Maharashtra and the “Baghdadi Jews” of West Bengal. Recently two more communities have claimed Jewish ancestry viz. “Bene Menasheh” (1970s) from North East India and “Bene Ephraim or Telugu Jews” (1980s) from Andhra Pradesh. A small population of Jews had migrated to India during the Mughal, Portuguese, Dutch, French and British rule as well. Perhaps the Jewish refugees from Hitler’s Anti-Semitic Europe were the last Jews to arrive India. In other words, Jews weren’t a single emigration to India. At different times they arrived and settled peacefully in India where they never experienced any anti-Semitism from the native Indian community. Although Jews supposedly reached Kerala as early as 1st century AD, there were many different waves of emigrations later as well. Gradually, Jews of Kerala became organized into three distinct groups, but the different communities interacted very less among themselves. 1) Malabari Jews: the largest and most ancient group considered to have arrived in India as merchants during the period of King Solomon (1000 BC). 2). ‘Paradesi’ (foreigner) Jews: the second largest and recent group (from 16th century onwards) who migrated mainly from Egypt, Iraq, Syria, Iran, Spain and Germany. 3). ‘Meshuhararim’ (released): the smallest group believed to be the slaves held by both Malabari and Paradesi communities who were converted to Judaism and later on released from their status as slaves. The Malabari Jews were called the ‘Black Jews’, the Meshuhararim-the ‘Brown Jews’ and the ‘Paradesi’-the ‘White Jews’-terms considered derogatory and racist today. The arguments on who came first and who are more pure were often fought vehemently and each sect defended their claims. The Jewish population of Kerala numbered 2,400 at the height of their “mass” emigration to Israel in 1954. Today (2011), less than 40 Jews remain in Kerala-9 Paradesi Jews comprising of 6 women and 3 men; and less than 30 Malabari Jews.

In a strong caste-based Indian society, fair skinned Paradesi Jews managed to win a privileged position although they were a minority and newly arrived. Their European background, influence and wealth managed to push the majority of relatively poor Malabar Jews into an inferior position in colonial India. Unfortunately, even today for many in the west and to a great extent in India too, the existence of Kerala’s ancient Malabari Jewish community and their heritage is far unknown. The famous Paradesi Synagogue in Cochin is perhaps the only monument that comes into the mind of many as far as Judaism in Kerala is concerned. Often mistakenly acclaimed to be the oldest (built 1568) synagogue in British Commonwealth, the Paradesi Synagogue however, is the only functional one in Kerala today (2011). Did the Jewish community of Kerala leave anything more than this famed synagogue? The answer is a big yes. Judaism in Kerala is not only about the Paradesi Jews of Cochin and their synagogue in Mattanchery. In fact, the Malabari Jews have seven synagogues and six cemeteries, and several aretfacts and monuments that are also part of Kerala’s rich Jewish heritage! This does not include the few existing Jewish homes and the many earlier Jewish residences converted into non-Jewish owned business buildings and private villas.

This blog will be an attempt to help people both inside and outside India to locate and learn about the known Jewish monuments of Kerala, that include synagogues, cemeteries and former Jewish residences. It will be equally pictorial and textual in format. One of the objectives of this blog is to help people in identifying all known Jewish monuments of Kerala through maps and photographs. Their left out synagogues and cemeteries are the physical landmarks that still stand in testimony to the vibrant and glorious heritage of Jews who claim at least 2000 years of strong and continuous bond with India. The big question is about the accessibility and identification of these monuments. Some of the cemeteries for example are so overgrown with weeds and turned into garbage dumping yards that even the locals have no clue about their existence. Most of the sites have no sign boards or maps available to pin point their exact location. The information from internet and other sources are also limited or at times misinformed when locating the monuments are concerned. I will try to get as many photographs as needed to help people understand these monuments and the blog will not be confined to the heritage of Paradesi Jews alone. For those synagogues that are disputed properties or lie in ruined state and are not accessible for the public I will only add photographs of the exterior. Some of the original Jewish artifacts from Kerala are preserved in Israel and what left here are the duplicates. In such cases, I will trace and append online links having the original photographs. Regarding the dates associated with the history of ‘Kerala Jews’, I have tried to incorporate the most popular views and need not always be the scholarly accepted ones. I shall be much glad if any one can contribute or provide details of additional monuments, sites or artifacts you think can be classified as part of Jewish heritage of Kerala.

Being also a photoblog, I will be concentrating more on the photographs taken from various Jewish monuments in Kerala. Not many sites are available online that go deep into the structural and historic details of these heritage units with photographs. However, we are lucky to have a few very enlightening resources. The“Friends of Kerala Synagogues 2011”(Prof. Jay A. Waronker, USA; Prof. Shalva Weil, Israel; Marian Scheuer Sofaer, USA; Isaac Sam, India and Tirza Muttath Lavi, Israel) maintain an excellent site on the synagogues of Kerala. I strongly recommend anyone interested in ‘Jewish synagogues of Kerala’ to go through their highly informative links. Whenever, I refer to their site, it will be acknowledged as ‘www.cochinsyn.com’. The other very important site I recommend is the beautiful photo collection by Jono David in his Ha Chayim Ha Yehudim Jewish Photo Library’. He has photographs from many Jewish monuments of India. Although he has got wrong one of the synagogues (Mattancherry Kadavumbagam Synagogue) the site has largely helped me to identify the Jewish cemeteries in Kerala.

JEWISH MONUMENTS & ARTIFACTS OF KERALA

The most important Jewish heritage structures in Kerala are the synagogues (Juda Palli in Malayalam), cemeteries and residences.

A. Synagogues

Today, there are 35 synagogues in India and 7 of them are in Kerala. The architectural style of Kerala synagogues differs from those in the west. These synagogues are strongly influenced from earlier Hindu religious buildings on its design and construction. They are characterized by high slope roofs, thick laterite-stoned walls, large windows and doors, balcony and wood-carved ceilings. A Kerala synagogue consists of a ‘Gate House’ at the entrance that leads through a Breezeway to the Synagogue Complex. The synagogue complex is made of a fully enclosed Azara or Anteroom and a double-storeyed sanctuary-the main prayer hall. Inside a typical double-storeyed sanctuary of a ‘Kerala Synagogue’ are:

1) A Tebah/Bimah: Located at the center of the sanctuary, Tebah is usually an elevated wooden platform or pulpit from which Torah, the holy book of Jews is read. 2) A Heichal (Ark): Represents the altar. It is a chest or cupboard in the synagogue where the Torah scrolls are kept. It is usually carved intricately and painted/gilded with teak wood. Unlike in the European Synagogues, where the ark is placed on the eastern wall, the synagogues in Kerala have the arks on the western wall facing Jerusalem. 3) A Balcony/Second Tebah: It is unique to the synagogues of Kerala. The balcony has two portions one for men and the other for ladies. Women’s seating area is placed directly above the azara. 4) A Staircase: Leads to the balcony and is generally spiral in shape and made of wood. At times there are two staircases, one for men from the main hall inside the synagogue and the other for the ladies from a staircase room outside the synagogue; 5) A Jewish School: Is actually a classroom for Jewish children usually located behind the women’s section on the first floor.

B. Cemeteries

Resting place of ancestors means a lot to the Jewish community. Sometimes they even carried tombstones from their old settlements while migrating to a newer place. The oldest Jewish tomb in India (dated 1269 AD) preserved in front of Chendamangalam synagogue is one such transferred from Kodungallur. Unlike Christian tombs in Kerala with Malayalam and English engravings, the Jewish graves have mostly Hebrew inscriptions. The Jewish year can be converted into modern Gregorian date if one can read the Hebrew letters. ‘Reading Hebrew Tombstones’ is an interesting site to read the Jewish tombs.

C. Jewish Residences

Today, most of the early Jewish homes sold to non-Jews are substantially modified or refurbished. However, there are a few features that still make them identifiable. Sometimes you can trace Jewish symbols like Menorah (candlestick) and Magen David (Star of David) on the walls, windows and roof tops. For example, a few residences in Mattancherry still maintain the Star of David (Magen David) despite being converted into shops or warehouses. The best way to locate the home of a residing Jew is to look for the Mezuzah on the door post. Nailed to the doorpost of a Jewish home, Mezuzah is a small container made of wood, plastic or metal having a piece of parchment with the most important words from the Jewish Holy Book, Torah. It is customary among religious Jews to touch the mezuzah on entering or leaving the home. A few homes in the Synagogue Lane of Mattancherry with mezuzah are the residences of the remaining 9 Paradesi Jews.

The Jewish monuments and artifacts I will be discussing in this blog are:

I Synagogues

1. Pardesi Synagogue, Mattancherry (1568)

2. Kadavumbagam Synagogue, Mattancherry (1130 or 1539)

3. Thekkumbagam Synagogue, Mattancherry (1647, only the building site known)

4. Kadavumbagam Synagogue, Ernakulam (1200)

5. Thekkumbagam Synagogue, Ernakulam (1200 or 1580))

6. Paravur Synagogue (750 or 1164 or 1616)

7. Mala Synagogue (1400 or 1597)

8. Chendamangalam Synagogue (1420 or 1614)

(The various speculated dates of establishment in parenthesis are taken from www.cochinsyn.com, coutesy Prof. Jay A. Waronker)

II Cemeteries

1. Pardesi Jewish Cemetery, Mattancherry

2. Malabari Jewish Cemetery, Mattancherry

3. Old Jewish Cemetery, Ernakulam

4. New Jewish Cemetery, Ernakulam

5. Paravur Jewish Cemetery

6. Mala Jewish Cemetery

7. Chendamangalam Jewish Cemetery

III Jew Streets

1. Jew Street Mattancherry (Jewish residences with Mezuzah and Magen David)

2. Jew Steet, Ernakulam (today all shops in non-Jewish hands)

3. Jew Street, Paravur (Twin Pillars)

4. Jew Street, Mala (Gate House and Breezeway of synagogue turned into shops)

5. Jew Street, Chendamangalam (used to be a Jewish Market or Judakambolam)

6. Jew Street, Calicut (identified in July 2011 as Jootha (Jew) Bazar)

IV Other Monuments & Artifacts

1. Tomb of Sarah (1269 AD), Chendamangalam

2. Kochangadi Synagogue Corner-stone, Mattancherry

3. Jewish Children’s Play Ground, Mattancherry

4. Clock-Tower, Mattancherry

5. Sarah Cohen’s Embroidery Shop, Mattancherry

6. Jew Hill/Judakunnu/Jewish Bazar, Palayur

7. Jew Tank/Judakkulam, Madayi

8. Koder House, Fort Kochi

9. Grand Residencia, Fort Kochi

10. Jewish Summer Resorts, Aluva

11. Jewish Copper Plates, Mattancherry

12. Syrian Copper Plates, Kollam

13. Torah Finial, Palayur

V Lost Jewish Colonies

1. Kodungallur (Thrissur)

2. Palayur (Thrissur)

3. Pullut (Thrissur)

4. Kunnamkulam (Thrissur)

5. Saudhi (Ernakulam)

6. Tir-tur (Ernakulam)

7. Fort Kochi (Ernakulam)

8. Chaliyam (Kozhikode)

5. Pantalayani Kollam (Kozhikode)

9. Thekkepuram (Kozhikkode)

10. Muttam (Alappuzha)

11. Kayamkulam (Alappuzha)

12. Dharmadom (Kannur)

13. Madayi (Kannur)

14. Quilon (Kollam)

15. Pathirikunnu, Krishnagiri (Waynad)

16. Anchuthengu (Thiruvananthapuram)