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Tuesday 11 February 2020

STRUCTURAL ALTERATIONS IN THE PREMISES OF MALA SYNAGOGUE SINCE 1955

Earlier we discussed about the structural modifications done in the Mala Synagogue; in this post we will see the alterations carried out at the premises of the sanctuary. We learn from the Mala Contract (1955) that the synagogue had boundary walls on three sides and was bordered by privately owned (non-Jewish) buildings and compounds at East, South and West directions, and a Panchayath Road (CMS Road) running on the North side. Originally, the synagogue compound measured 32 cents (1294 sq m), but 9 cents (364 sq m) of land on the East side was sold already at the time of transfer (1955). After Jews left Mala, the synagogue was used for conducting classes for Lower Primary students and it also functioned as a Community Hall. The surroundings of the synagogue were heavily altered and a big share of land was misused. To get a better idea, one might look for old photographs taken from the premises. This is where the photographs taken in 1995 from Mala by the  Center for Jewish Art (Hebrew University of Jerusalem) under the Bezalel Narkiss Index of Jewish Art (http://cja.huji.ac.il) become much helpful. Despite taken relatively recently (40 years after Jews left Mala), these photos reveal how significantly the synagogue premises have changed within such a short span of time. We will compare some of these photographs with the latest images and see the depth of encroachment.

I) The Northern Compound
The maximum encroachment in the synagogue premises occurred at the northern boundary. A two-story commercial building was constructed and it was rented out to private individuals and organizations. I believe this was done before early 1990s. The new construction virtually blocked the entire view of the synagogue from the northern side, it was so close to the sanctuary that only a narrow alley existed between these structures. In fact, there was even an iron gate at the western end of this narrow path as evident from one of the 1995 images. The illegal shopping complex was demolished in 2003 (or 2008?) by the Panchayath, but the free space generated was used as a parking area for some time. It was only in 2010, the parking lot was evacuated and the current boundary wall was erected on the northern border. We don't know if there was originally a compound wall on the north side, the 1955 Mala contract do suggest three boundary walls for the synagogue. Also, in the 1955 deed, we learn that a Panchayath Street (CMS Road) ran on the north side, and thus it is more plausible that a bordering wall guarded the synagogue from a public street. 

1) The North Boundary of Mala Synagogue in 1995
Photo Courtesy: Center for Jewish Art (Hebrew University of Jerusalem Israel); Photographer: Zev Radovan.

2) The North Boundary of Mala Synagogue in 2020

3) The North Side (West to East) of Mala Synagogue in 1995
Photo Courtesy: Center for Jewish Art (Hebrew University of Jerusalem Israel); Photographer: Boris Lekar

4) The North Side (West to East) of Mala Synagogue in 2020

5) The Parking Area in the North Side of Synagogue Compound (<2010)
Photo Courtesy: https://www.slideshare.net/wlts/mala-jewish-synagogue-cochin; Date: Not available

Another interesting building to notice is Shanmugham Tea Shop at the north-east end of the synagogue. If you carefully observe the building, the gable of the structure  gives the date of its establishment as 20-2-1955. This would be then the first structure to be built near the synagogue compound after the sanctuary was transferred to Panchayath on 4 January, 1955. Despite many of the buildings near the east side of the synagogue including the original Gatehouse and Breezeway of the synagogue were demolished for the 2017 road-widening project, the Tea Stall still stands.
6 & 7) The 1955-built Tea Stall on the North Side of the Synagogue
Photo-2017

Photo-2020

8) Enlarged View of the Gable of the Tea Shop
Photo-2020

II) The Western Compound
The west boundary of the synagogue has also changed considerably. In the following 1995 image, you can observe a stone wall joining a two-storey yellow building which is actually the extension of the shopping complex constructed in the northern boundary. Between the synagogue building and the commercial complex is the narrow alley we discussed earlier, in fact the iron gate is immediately after the blue coloured wheelbarrow. All these structures were removed in 2003 (?) as they were illegal constructions. Today, you can find a toilet block in the western compound, which in 1995 was outside the walls (see here). The new boundary wall is built a few feet outside the old one, giving the synagogue more space in the west side and the toilet building becomes part of the synagogue compound.
9)The West Boundary of Mala Synagogue in 1995
Photo Courtesy: Center for Jewish Art (Hebrew University of Jerusalem Israel); Photographer: Boris Lekar
10 & 11) The West Boundary of Mala Synagogue in 2020


III) The Eastern Compound
The eastern compound housed the gatehouse and breezeway of the synagogue. The 1995 photograph clearly shows a boundary wall on the south east border which remained intact at least until early 2010. When I visited the Synagogue in May 2010, there was no boundary wall but a make shift border replacing the old structure. Later, it was also removed and presently the border remains empty. On the other hand whether there existed a wall on the north-east side cannot be confirmed, but there wasn't any in 1995 as evident from photographs taken during that period (See Photo 1).
12) The South-East Boundary of Mala Synagogue in 1995
Photo Courtesy: Center for Jewish Art (Hebrew University of Jerusalem Israel); Photographer: Boris Lekar

13) The South-East Boundary of Mala Synagogue in 2011
14) The South-East Boundary of Mala Synagogue in 2020

We saw earlier how the Gatehouse and Breezeway of the synagogue were substantially modified and finally completely demolished in 2017. The following photographs will through more light on the structure of both the structures before they were removed. See that the ground level of breezeway is enclosed and the ends are already sealed.
15) Gatehouse and Breezeway of Mala Synagogue in 1995
Photo Courtesy: Center for Jewish Art (Hebrew University of Jerusalem Israel); Photographer: Zev Radovan.

 16 & 17) Gatehouse and Breezeway of Mala Synagogue in 2015

IV) The Southern Compound
The southern boundary wall is most probably the only original border still retained. The size of the synagogue's compound at this side hasn't changed since 1955. The multi-storey shopping complex behind the wall is modern (post 2010), but it is anyway positioned outside the original synagogue border. In this 1995 image, you can see the free standing south wall without any modern constructions in the background.
18 to 20) South Boundary Wall of Mala Synagogue in 2020

Posted by CONTACT ME (Dr. Laju Paul K.) at 22:51

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INTRODUCTION

The monotheistic religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam arrived India much before they reached the West. For instance, it is widely believed that Christianity reached the subcontinent only after Portuguese, the first European colonists arrived India in the 15th century. However, long before Christianity reached many parts of Europe, it came to India. According to strong, continuous and unanimous traditions among the ancient Syrian Christians of Kerala, Christianity was introduced to India by St: Thomas, the Apostle of Jesus Christ in 52 AD, who established seven churches in Kerala. Contrary to popular belief that Islam came to India through the 11th century Muslim invasions in the northern parts of the country, it first arrived Kerala via the Arab merchants from 7th century onwards at the earliest. Similarly, Judaism the oldest continuously practiced monotheistic religion has an Indian presence from very early times. If traditional accounts are to be accepted,India had a Jewish colony from the time of King Solomon (10th century BC)! Most importantly, all the three religions trace their arrival in India to the Malabar region of Southern India which is currently the modern State of Kerala. Since ancient times Kerala has been the center of the Indian spice trade where Greeks, Romans, Jews, Arabs and Chinese came for grabbing their part of share. To be specific, the first Jewish, Christian and Islamic settlements of India claim their origin to a place called Cranganore (modern Kodungallur) in Kerala.

Much has been written on Indian Jews, their unique culture and traditions. Among the three major Jewish communities in India, the “Kerala Jews” popularly known as“Cochin Jews” are the most ancient followed by the “Bene Israel” of Maharashtra and the “Baghdadi Jews” of West Bengal. Recently two more communities have claimed Jewish ancestry viz. “Bene Menasheh” (1970s) from North East India and “Bene Ephraim or Telugu Jews” (1980s) from Andhra Pradesh. A small population of Jews had migrated to India during the Mughal, Portuguese, Dutch, French and British rule as well. Perhaps the Jewish refugees from Hitler’s Anti-Semitic Europe were the last Jews to arrive India. In other words, Jews weren’t a single emigration to India. At different times they arrived and settled peacefully in India where they never experienced any anti-Semitism from the native Indian community. Although Jews supposedly reached Kerala as early as 1st century AD, there were many different waves of emigrations later as well. Gradually, Jews of Kerala became organized into three distinct groups, but the different communities interacted very less among themselves. 1) Malabari Jews: the largest and most ancient group considered to have arrived in India as merchants during the period of King Solomon (1000 BC). 2). ‘Paradesi’ (foreigner) Jews: the second largest and recent group (from 16th century onwards) who migrated mainly from Egypt, Iraq, Syria, Iran, Spain and Germany. 3). ‘Meshuhararim’ (released): the smallest group believed to be the slaves held by both Malabari and Paradesi communities who were converted to Judaism and later on released from their status as slaves. The Malabari Jews were called the ‘Black Jews’, the Meshuhararim-the ‘Brown Jews’ and the ‘Paradesi’-the ‘White Jews’-terms considered derogatory and racist today. The arguments on who came first and who are more pure were often fought vehemently and each sect defended their claims. The Jewish population of Kerala numbered 2,400 at the height of their “mass” emigration to Israel in 1954. Today (2011), less than 40 Jews remain in Kerala-9 Paradesi Jews comprising of 6 women and 3 men; and less than 30 Malabari Jews.

In a strong caste-based Indian society, fair skinned Paradesi Jews managed to win a privileged position although they were a minority and newly arrived. Their European background, influence and wealth managed to push the majority of relatively poor Malabar Jews into an inferior position in colonial India. Unfortunately, even today for many in the west and to a great extent in India too, the existence of Kerala’s ancient Malabari Jewish community and their heritage is far unknown. The famous Paradesi Synagogue in Cochin is perhaps the only monument that comes into the mind of many as far as Judaism in Kerala is concerned. Often mistakenly acclaimed to be the oldest (built 1568) synagogue in British Commonwealth, the Paradesi Synagogue however, is the only functional one in Kerala today (2011). Did the Jewish community of Kerala leave anything more than this famed synagogue? The answer is a big yes. Judaism in Kerala is not only about the Paradesi Jews of Cochin and their synagogue in Mattanchery. In fact, the Malabari Jews have seven synagogues and six cemeteries, and several aretfacts and monuments that are also part of Kerala’s rich Jewish heritage! This does not include the few existing Jewish homes and the many earlier Jewish residences converted into non-Jewish owned business buildings and private villas.

This blog will be an attempt to help people both inside and outside India to locate and learn about the known Jewish monuments of Kerala, that include synagogues, cemeteries and former Jewish residences. It will be equally pictorial and textual in format. One of the objectives of this blog is to help people in identifying all known Jewish monuments of Kerala through maps and photographs. Their left out synagogues and cemeteries are the physical landmarks that still stand in testimony to the vibrant and glorious heritage of Jews who claim at least 2000 years of strong and continuous bond with India. The big question is about the accessibility and identification of these monuments. Some of the cemeteries for example are so overgrown with weeds and turned into garbage dumping yards that even the locals have no clue about their existence. Most of the sites have no sign boards or maps available to pin point their exact location. The information from internet and other sources are also limited or at times misinformed when locating the monuments are concerned. I will try to get as many photographs as needed to help people understand these monuments and the blog will not be confined to the heritage of Paradesi Jews alone. For those synagogues that are disputed properties or lie in ruined state and are not accessible for the public I will only add photographs of the exterior. Some of the original Jewish artifacts from Kerala are preserved in Israel and what left here are the duplicates. In such cases, I will trace and append online links having the original photographs. Regarding the dates associated with the history of ‘Kerala Jews’, I have tried to incorporate the most popular views and need not always be the scholarly accepted ones. I shall be much glad if any one can contribute or provide details of additional monuments, sites or artifacts you think can be classified as part of Jewish heritage of Kerala.

Being also a photoblog, I will be concentrating more on the photographs taken from various Jewish monuments in Kerala. Not many sites are available online that go deep into the structural and historic details of these heritage units with photographs. However, we are lucky to have a few very enlightening resources. The“Friends of Kerala Synagogues 2011”(Prof. Jay A. Waronker, USA; Prof. Shalva Weil, Israel; Marian Scheuer Sofaer, USA; Isaac Sam, India and Tirza Muttath Lavi, Israel) maintain an excellent site on the synagogues of Kerala. I strongly recommend anyone interested in ‘Jewish synagogues of Kerala’ to go through their highly informative links. Whenever, I refer to their site, it will be acknowledged as ‘www.cochinsyn.com’. The other very important site I recommend is the beautiful photo collection by Jono David in his ‘Ha Chayim Ha Yehudim Jewish Photo Library’. He has photographs from many Jewish monuments of India. Although he has got wrong one of the synagogues (Mattancherry Kadavumbagam Synagogue) the site has largely helped me to identify the Jewish cemeteries in Kerala.

JEWISH MONUMENTS & ARTIFACTS OF KERALA

The most important Jewish heritage structures in Kerala are the synagogues (Juda Palli in Malayalam), cemeteries and residences.

A. Synagogues

Today, there are 35 synagogues in India and 7 of them are in Kerala. The architectural style of Kerala synagogues differs from those in the west. These synagogues are strongly influenced from earlier Hindu religious buildings on its design and construction. They are characterized by high slope roofs, thick laterite-stoned walls, large windows and doors, balcony and wood-carved ceilings. A Kerala synagogue consists of a ‘Gate House’ at the entrance that leads through a Breezeway to the Synagogue Complex. The synagogue complex is made of a fully enclosed Azara or Anteroom and a double-storeyed sanctuary-the main prayer hall. Inside a typical double-storeyed sanctuary of a ‘Kerala Synagogue’ are:

1) A Tebah/Bimah: Located at the center of the sanctuary, Tebah is usually an elevated wooden platform or pulpit from which Torah, the holy book of Jews is read. 2) A Heichal (Ark): Represents the altar. It is a chest or cupboard in the synagogue where the Torah scrolls are kept. It is usually carved intricately and painted/gilded with teak wood. Unlike in the European Synagogues, where the ark is placed on the eastern wall, the synagogues in Kerala have the arks on the western wall facing Jerusalem. 3) A Balcony/Second Tebah: It is unique to the synagogues of Kerala. The balcony has two portions one for men and the other for ladies. Women’s seating area is placed directly above the azara. 4) A Staircase: Leads to the balcony and is generally spiral in shape and made of wood. At times there are two staircases, one for men from the main hall inside the synagogue and the other for the ladies from a staircase room outside the synagogue; 5) A Jewish School: Is actually a classroom for Jewish children usually located behind the women’s section on the first floor.

B. Cemeteries

Resting place of ancestors means a lot to the Jewish community. Sometimes they even carried tombstones from their old settlements while migrating to a newer place. The oldest Jewish tomb in India (dated 1269 AD) preserved in front of Chendamangalam synagogue is one such transferred from Kodungallur. Unlike Christian tombs in Kerala with Malayalam and English engravings, the Jewish graves have mostly Hebrew inscriptions. The Jewish year can be converted into modern Gregorian date if one can read the Hebrew letters. ‘Reading Hebrew Tombstones’ is an interesting site to read the Jewish tombs.

C. Jewish Residences

Today, most of the early Jewish homes sold to non-Jews are substantially modified or refurbished. However, there are a few features that still make them identifiable. Sometimes you can trace Jewish symbols like Menorah (candlestick) and Magen David (Star of David) on the walls, windows and roof tops. For example, a few residences in Mattancherry still maintain the Star of David (Magen David) despite being converted into shops or warehouses. The best way to locate the home of a residing Jew is to look for the Mezuzah on the door post. Nailed to the doorpost of a Jewish home, Mezuzah is a small container made of wood, plastic or metal having a piece of parchment with the most important words from the Jewish Holy Book, Torah. It is customary among religious Jews to touch the mezuzah on entering or leaving the home. A few homes in the Synagogue Lane of Mattancherry with mezuzah are the residences of the remaining 9 Paradesi Jews.

The Jewish monuments and artifacts I will be discussing in this blog are:

I Synagogues

1. Pardesi Synagogue, Mattancherry (1568)

2. Kadavumbagam Synagogue, Mattancherry (1130 or 1539)

3. Thekkumbagam Synagogue, Mattancherry (1647, only the building site known)

4. Kadavumbagam Synagogue, Ernakulam (1200)

5. Thekkumbagam Synagogue, Ernakulam (1200 or 1580))

6. Paravur Synagogue (750 or 1164 or 1616)

7. Mala Synagogue (1400 or 1597)

8. Chendamangalam Synagogue (1420 or 1614)

(The various speculated dates of establishment in parenthesis are taken from www.cochinsyn.com, coutesy Prof. Jay A. Waronker)

II Cemeteries

1. Pardesi Jewish Cemetery, Mattancherry

2. Malabari Jewish Cemetery, Mattancherry

3. Old Jewish Cemetery, Ernakulam

4. New Jewish Cemetery, Ernakulam

5. Paravur Jewish Cemetery

6. Mala Jewish Cemetery

7. Chendamangalam Jewish Cemetery

III Jew Streets

1. Jew Street Mattancherry (Jewish residences with Mezuzah and Magen David)

2. Jew Steet, Ernakulam (today all shops in non-Jewish hands)

3. Jew Street, Paravur (Twin Pillars)

4. Jew Street, Mala (Gate House and Breezeway of synagogue turned into shops)

5. Jew Street, Chendamangalam (used to be a Jewish Market or Judakambolam)

6. Jew Street, Calicut (identified in July 2011 as Jootha (Jew) Bazar)

IV Other Monuments & Artifacts

1. Tomb of Sarah (1269 AD), Chendamangalam

2. Kochangadi Synagogue Corner-stone, Mattancherry

3. Jewish Children’s Play Ground, Mattancherry

4. Clock-Tower, Mattancherry

5. Sarah Cohen’s Embroidery Shop, Mattancherry

6. Jew Hill/Judakunnu/Jewish Bazar, Palayur

7. Jew Tank/Judakkulam, Madayi

8. Koder House, Fort Kochi

9. Grand Residencia, Fort Kochi

10. Jewish Summer Resorts, Aluva

11. Jewish Copper Plates, Mattancherry

12. Syrian Copper Plates, Kollam

13. Torah Finial, Palayur

V Lost Jewish Colonies

1. Kodungallur (Thrissur)

2. Palayur (Thrissur)

3. Pullut (Thrissur)

4. Kunnamkulam (Thrissur)

5. Saudhi (Ernakulam)

6. Tir-tur (Ernakulam)

7. Fort Kochi (Ernakulam)

8. Chaliyam (Kozhikode)

5. Pantalayani Kollam (Kozhikode)

9. Thekkepuram (Kozhikkode)

10. Muttam (Alappuzha)

11. Kayamkulam (Alappuzha)

12. Dharmadom (Kannur)

13. Madayi (Kannur)

14. Quilon (Kollam)

15. Pathirikunnu, Krishnagiri (Waynad)

16. Anchuthengu (Thiruvananthapuram)